餐厅设计案例｜还原一个冰酸味觉的少年时代

味觉是触发回忆的一道大门，少年的故事，因一碗酸甜清爽的粉，被徐徐打开。大發越南粉餐厅设计由一支来自上海的年轻设计团队完成，空间被赋予了诗意，味道、空气、色彩糅杂，唤起食客们的记忆。

青青的野葡萄 淡黄的小月亮 妈妈发愁了 怎么做果酱 。

我说: 别加糖 在早晨的篱笆上 有一枚甜甜的 红太阳 

——顾城 《安慰》

世界上充满了光和爱，等着青年自己去找。像一只蜜蜂寻找花蜜，它专注于那一点蜜的存在，没有旁骛，没有妄想。

The world is filled with light and love which awaits to be found by the teenagers just like the bee’s hunting for the nectars with full attention and no fantasies. 

在南方的一段时间，皮肤晒的黑红，你笑开的唇间，牙齿白白的，看起来年轻、明亮、灿烂。我要记得大發今天身上的气味，刚刚从南方回来的海洋的气味，阳光的气味，沙滩和礁石的气味，长长的风的气味，渔船和机油的气味，还有你帆布袋上流浪的气味。

During the time living in the South, your teeth looks so white when you smiles flattered by your tanned skin. You looks so bright and you don’t looks for your age. I remembered the smell of FAT, the odor of the sea, the sunshine, the beach, the reef, the long wind, the fishing boat and the motor oil as well as the wandering smell on your canvas bag. 

回忆这东西若是有味的话，大發越南粉是有味的。甜而稳妥，像记得分明的快乐，甜而惆怅，像忘却里的忧愁，是那个沉溺于啜吸柠檬水冰酸味觉的少年时代。

If memories have flavors, the FAT PHO is also flavored. They are the clear happiness, sweet and sound. They are the melancholy in forgetting, sweet and depressed. This is the icy and sour childhood with lemonades. 

甜久了慢慢会发酸，酸味其实好像是人生第二种不同味觉的品尝，会知道生命并不像童年想到的都是甜味，生命里面也有一点点发酸的忧伤的感觉，沁在大發越南粉这空间里。

Gradually, sweet will become sour. Actually, sour is quite similar to the taste of a second different flavor in life and we will know the life is not all sweet like what you think of when you were a child. There is also sad and sour in life enclosed in the FAT PHO.

如果你心情有一点不好，可以来这里坐坐。我常常觉得最好的关心有时候不一定是语言，而是一种味觉上的照顾。可能是让人从味觉开始体会到自己生命里非常美好的部分。你不需要再给他加重油腻的东西，这里反而能够帮助你去除油腻，再青春一味。

If you feel a little bit upset, you can call in here. I often think that the best care is not necessarily the one in language, but the one in taste. Human beings may sense the best part of their lives from taste. You don’t need to add some greasy things to it. Instead, it can help you to remove the greasy things and experience youth again. 

是不是因为衰老了，更可以从年轻的身体上，嗅到一种叫做青春的气味。这里的座椅硬邦邦的不大舒服，桌面石材的冰感刺痛，那种吃苦也像享乐的岁月 便叫青春。

Is it because of aging that we can catch the breath of youth from a young body. The chair here is hard and uncomfortable with a icy and pricking stone material. Youth is time of bitter sweet. 

那些泡在盐水里的杨梅的酸酸的气味，凤梨削皮时刺激口液的气味；甘蔗田里，甜而燥热的气味；用草绳捆扎的大冰块沁凉的气味。有一天，那稚嫩的气味，会和你一样，茁壮成少年的青春，会散发成熟自信的气味。

The sour smell of Bayberry soaked in salt water, the smell of pared pineapples stimulating the mouth; the sweet and hot smell of sugarcane fields; the cool smell of big ice tied with straw ropes together with the immature smell, will become a mature and confident smell in time like your childhood and youth. 

那些气味，停留在空中，好像彼此对话，好像记忆着，论辩着它们曾经经历的风光雨露。我没有被谁知道，也没有被谁忘记。活在别人的回忆里，那不是我的目的。

Those smells which stay in the air, seem to talk with each other remembering and arguing about the sceneries and rains they have experienced. I was neither known to someone nor forgotten by someone. Living in the memories of others is not my purpose. 

一场人间烟火里，喉管里，那气味逐渐扩张在肺叶里。淡淡地浓，浓浓地淡，人情味是这样的。眼看一个个过客，熟门熟路地味觉起来，许多“个人”加起来，便是“时代”。

During our lifetime, that kind of smell gradually expanded in our throat and into the lung light and thick. Human touch is like this. We’ve seen loads of passers by and soon became familiar with them. “Time” is added up by “individuals”. 

我把薄荷叶凑近口鼻，薄荷的香很淡，像一个夏天黄昏最后流连不去的光，若有若无。我又放里少许颗粒的盐，再次想起你从南方回来时身上的气味。

I put the mint leaf close to my mouth and nose. The fragrance of mint is very light just like the last lingering light peeped out of a summer evening. I put in a few grains of salt again and I think of the smell on you when you came back from the south.

参与设计师：吴鲜贤 宁依灵 董文婷 刘玉喆 

Designers：Shian Wu /Yeelip Ning /Wendy Dong /Angie Liu

主材品牌：艺术涂料（威罗）、门窗（上海视觉）、真空石（万可石）

项目地址：上海市徐汇区天钥桥路333号腾飞大厦109大發越南粉

感谢吴鲜贤对新浪家居的分享，本文编辑：新浪家居 杨烨

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